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November 19, 2010

Chanukah’s the time for lots of latkes

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Salmon latkes. Photos by Dan Kacvinski.

Salmon latkes. Photos by Dan Kacvinski.

There is something special about Chanukah, a time when all of our children and grandchildren gather from across the country to celebrate the holiday, which begins this year at sundown on Dec. 1. Lighting the candles, followed by family meals, singing songs, exchanging gifts and playing the dreidel game all add up to quality family time.

What makes Chanukah such a festive occasion? Perhaps it starts with the aroma of potato latkes permeating the house. The crispy golden pancakes frying in the kitchen have come to symbolize the Festival of Lights, when we celebrate the miracle of one day’s supply of consecrated olive oil that kept the Jerusalem Temple’s lamp burning for eight days.

Unfortunately, most latke recipes rely on what seems like an eight-day supply of oil—or trans-fat-laden shortening – poured into the pan to achieve the desired flavor and crispness.

Healthy tips for frying with olive oil

1. Use a nonstick skillet to reduce the quantity of olive oil needed.
2. Check the suggested use date when purchasing olive oil.
3. Use extra-virgin olive oil. It makes fried foods light, crisp and more healthful.
4. Heat oil before frying — this prevents the food from absorbing too much oil and cuts down the time needed for foods to fry.
5. Fried foods should be drained on paper towels immediately.
6. Once used, dispose of frying oil; do not reuse.

But celebrating Chanukah doesn’t have to raise your cholesterol. This year I have created lighter latkes that are baked with a minimum amount of olive oil. I call them fry/baked. The olive oil is lightly spread on a very hot silicone or other nonstick baking sheet, small spoonfuls of the potato mixture are dropped on, and then they go into the oven to be baked until golden brown on each side.

Growing up, I remember helping my mother make the potato mixture using a hand-held grater. Today, latkes take much less time to prepare. To save time, use the knife blade in your food processor to chop the onions and then the grater blade to shred the potatoes. In addition to using potatoes, follow my recipe for zucchini latkes that are made with egg whites and grated onion.

At one time, Salmon Latkes, made with canned salmon, were Gramma Gene’s specialty. When our kids were growing up and they visited, she would always serve salmon latkes and blintzes for lunch.

Through the years, Gramma’s Gene’s recipe has taken on a few extra ingredients, but they blend together in no time at all. Simply mix the ingredients in a bowl and sauté in olive oil. Serve them with lemon or lime wedges and a simple yogurt-cucumber-dill sauce.

Another of our favorite latkes originated in Romania and is made with egg noodles. You can also bake the mixture kugel-style, adding 1 or 2 additional eggs and 2 or 3 tablespoons of raisins. Spoon the mixture into a greased baking dish or muffin pan. Bake at 375 degrees for 20 to 30 minutes or until crusty.

We begin the Chanukah dinner with a do-it-yourself salad. Let everyone choose from bowls of roasted peppers, carrots, celery, jicama, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, mushrooms and zucchini. Toss the salad and serve with warm, crusty bread, along with a selection of latkes. Serve crisp cold white wine for the adults and apple juice or milk for the younger group.

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