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Have you ever sat down in restaurant, scanned both sides of the menu, then flipped to the back hoping there\’d be another row of choices? That\’s how I\’ve felt after watching every Democratic debate of Campaign 2004. I\’m not particularly impressed with what\’s offered, but there\’s no column three.\n\n\”It would be kind of amusing,\” one long-time Democrat told me after the last debate, \”if it weren\’t so damned important.\”