During lunch at the Golden State restaurant on Fairfax, in between making sure my kids’ locavore-friendly food stays on plates and haranguing them to eat a few Persian cucumber slices, my eyes often linger on the hulking building across the street. In just a couple of seconds I’m filled with the mild sting of betrayal and guilt.
"The plov is great." Jonathan Gold, the LA Weekly's restaurant critic and the 2007 winner of the Pulitzer Prize for Criticism, e-mailed me the above about Uzbekistan (the restaurant on La Brea, not the country), where we were planning to meet.
When the editors of Gourmet named Jonathan Gold the magazine's restaurant critic, an obvious question came to mind: Why don't they just stick a fork in our hearts? To his fans in Los Angeles, losing Jonathan Gold cannot hurt much less.