Once upon a time, whenever Debbie Nagy-Huang and her husband returned home to Beijing from their native New York, they stuffed their suitcases full of H&H bagels. They froze and rationed them so they would last for months. “They’re just that one taste of home that you couldn’t ever get over here,” she said, sighing. Then one day last year, she saw a small story in a local magazine. Jordan Maseng, an honest-to-God, living-and-breathing New Yorker, was baking and delivering bagels, right here in the Chinese capital.