Rob Paperno, whose paternal heritage goes back to Livorno, Italy, left the family restaurant business in Los Angeles seven years ago (remember the Oak Tree Deli in Encino?) to devote himself to the great passion of his life- a bicycling exploration of his Jewish heritage.

Since then he has developed bicycle tours of Tuscany, Italy, a region that has been a continuous home to Jews for 700 years; of Provence, where Jews have flourished since the time of the medieval popes; of the Czech Republic, where Rabbi Judah Loew of Prague created the Golem; and Mississippi, where Jews have been entrenched since the Civil War.

The series of innovative biking tours is developed by his Historical Cycling International, a recent entry in the growing field of Jewish-oriented travel services.

Each of the weeklong trips is limited to a dozen participants, accompanied by two experienced guides and a guest lecturer or historian. HCI provides 21-speed hybrid bicycles and a support van for each day's run, which varies from 15 to 40 miles. Participants of all cycling levels and abilities are welcome. Accommodations are in four- and five-star hotels, and meals are on a similarly high level, with emphasis on regional cooking.

HCI's tours for the rest of 2000 include the following:

Travelers in the Vicksburg cemetary in Mississippi.

"Jews and Blues Alley," Oct. 23-29.

On "Jews and Blues Alley," cyclists will journey through the quaint towns of the Mississippi Delta, where the blues -- "laughin' to keep from cryin' " -- evolved from the harsh conditions of slavery in the cotton plantations of the region. From Natchez, center of many still-magnificent antebellum plantations, the route proceeds northward to Vicksburg, the site of the great battles by which General Grant broke the spine of the Confederacy.

In Natchez, cyclists will visit Temple B'nai Israel, which still functions as a synagogue, and enjoy Southern hospitality in several Jewish-owned antebellum homes. Riding along country roads and the Natchez Trace, the travelers will pause in Port Gibson, site of the oldest synagogue in the state.

In Vicksburg itself, the cyclists will ride in and around the city, including the 16-mile route marched by 100,000 federal soldiers, and stop at the Anshe Chesed cemetery in the Vicksburg Military Park, where tombstones record the lives and deaths of Vicksburg Jews who fought and died for the Confederacy.

The level of cycling is described as Level 1A, on gently to moderately rolling terrain, perfect for the beginning cyclist. The cost of $1,975 covers deluxe accommodations in plantation homes, most meals, equipment, guides and other services. Airfare to and from Jackson, the state capital and starting point, is extra.

Touring Tuscany, Aug. 28-Sept. 4.

The journey begins in Florence, with a visit to the synagogue and adjoining museum, as well as the many architectural sites and museums that have established the city as "the cradle of the Renaissance." The first two nights are spent in the enchanting village of Monteriggioni, after pedaling through a landscape of olive groves, wildflowers, cypress-lined lanes and Chianti vineyards.

A day and night in Siena, described as Italy's best-preserved medieval city, includes a morning tour of the town, the still-used synagogue and the site of the one-time ghetto. The afternoon offers a tour of museums, the town's 13th century Duomo and elegant boutiques, with a breather for sipping cappuccino in the Piazza del Campo.

Through the rolling hills of Tuscany, the cyclists pedal to the village of Monte San Savino for a tour of the now-fashionable and former ghetto area. That night's stay is at the Locanda dell'Amorosa, a 14th century farmhouse transformed into a hostelry of "understated elegance," according to Paperno.

The itinerary brings cyclists through the sleepy, hilltop villages of Trequanda, Montisi and Castelmuzio -- made famous in the movie "The English Patient" -- and to Bagno Vignoni, a medieval spa town in whose warm thermal waters the travelers can soak their feet. The group stays three nights in the Renaissance town of Pienza, allowing plenty of time to soak up the incredible views of the Val d'Orcia, wander the uncrowded narrow streets, and enjoy the excellent regional wines.

The last two days are spent in walking tours of Pitigliano and Sorano, where Jewish communities once flourished, and Florence, venue of a large and active Jewish community.

Jewish life has been renewed in Pitigliano. The cyclists will visit the restored synagogue, the small Jewish museum, a bakery in the old ghetto and an "enoteca" where they can buy an excellent kosher wine produced from grapes in local vineyards.

The Tuscany tour route is described as level 2B, with moderately rolling to hilly terrain. The cost of $2,890 includes deluxe accommodations, most meals, bicycles, guides and other services and support van but does not include airfare to and from Florence.

Biking down a country road.

Pedaling in

Provence, June 7-14.

Not all of the Sephardim exiled from Spain in 1492 traveled as far as Italy. Many settled down across the French border in cities such as Bordeaux and the smaller towns of Provence.

This tour begins in walled Avignon, where Jews enjoyed some measure of acceptance under the protection of 14th century Pope Clement VI and his successors. The former Jewish ghetto is near the colossal Palace of the Popes, which bikers will visit. Nearby is a synagogue-in-the-round, the lively religious and social center for a new congregation.

During the week, the bikers will visit Baroque synagogues in Cavaillon and Carpentras, and cross the Rhone River to the village of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, renowned for its red wines, for wine tasting at the famous Lirac and Tavel vineyards. Riding on through the uncrowded Rhone Valley, the cyclists will explore Roman ruins and amphitheaters. They will spend the final two days at the Chateau du Rochegude (Relais & Chateaux) a 12th century fortress overlooking the Cote du Rhone vineyards.

The cycling level of the Provence trip is 1B, with gently to moderately rolling terrain. The price of $3,250 covers the same items as on the Tuscany trip. Plane and train fares to and from Avignon are extra.

Passage to Prague,

June 27-July 5 and

Aug. 22-30

(a singles trip)

This journey to Prague and the Czech Republic runs through the beer towns and medieval villages of southern Bohemia. It starts and ends in Prague and includes visits to the 12th century Alt-Neu Synagogue, still in use, to the Jewish Town Hall, with its famous Hebrew-lettered clock, and to the Jewish cemetery, considered the most visited monument in the city. Outside Prague, the cyclists will spend an afternoon at the Terezin concentration camp.

The cycling level of the Czech Republic trip is 1B. The cost of the trip is $2,850, with the same coverage as the other tours. Airfare to and from Prague is extra.

HCI will also run a tour in Quebec this September, just before the High Holy Days, and has schedule a tour through southern Spain for its 2001 season. More information on all tours is available from HCI, (310) 289-5099, e-mail, cycling@gte.net; Web site, www.historical-cycling.com.