January 21, 2013 | 12:00 pm

Quinoa Tabouli with Four Fresh Herbs (RECIPE)

Posted by Elana Horwich

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A recipe from last Wednesday's Fab Five Cooking Class....

I do not propose to make a tabouli that will revolutionize world-wide tabouli. In fact, this recipe is not technically even tabouli at all.  It is made with quinoa and adds fresh basil and cilantro, all of which are no-no’s in the tabouli world. There is rarely any ingredient variation in tabouli* and rarely would I ever call for any ingredient variation in a recipe whose roots are far older than my deadest ancestors.Tradition is to be respected. 

However, this is an exception. And it’s not because tabouli is not good as is, but rather because tabouli is often not great on this side of the Red Sea. It rarely makes you think about the next time you will eat tabouli. It rarely starts a conversation about tabouli. It rarely makes you want to roll around on the floor and shout out “mammmma,” which is the  actual definition of good food. 

What I do propose is a recipe gives you, or at least me,  exactly what I want to eat: a healthy, wheat-free, heart warming dish with protein whose fresh herbed flavors meld together and heighten the experience of the entire meal. It is both rich and light, food adjectives that are often hard to achieve in the same dish. I love to serve this as a side dish to my Spiced Lamb Skewers, but also enjoy it as a small meal on its own. 

Remember, the key to making a good quinoa salad is to toss and dress it while it is still warm. And the key to any good food is to make it with love. Keep those two things in mind and life will seem easy....for at least a half hour or so. 

*A Middle Eastern dish, tabouli or tabbouleh is traditionally made with bulgar wheat, mint, parsley, lemon, olive oil and chopped tomato. 

Ingredients:

(Vigor Triggers: To read Health Benefits of each ingredient, click on it)

• 2 cups quinoa
• 4 cups water
• 1 ¼ finely chopped fresh mint
• ½ cup finely chopped fresh parsely
• ½ cup finely chopped fresh basil
• ½ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro
• 15 cherry tomatoes (heirloom when in summer season) quartered
• 2 scant teaspoons salt
• ½ cup extra virgin olive oil
• the juice of 2 lemons
• the zest of 1 lemon
• 1 teaspoon wheat free-tamari (or good soy sauce)
• 1 teaspoon Coconut Aminos (available at amazon or health food stores) or Braggs Aminos which are more readily available

1. Cook quinoa with water in a automatic rice cooker. Otherwise follow package instructions.
2. When done, remove lid to let cool slightly.
3. WHILE STILL WARM, add olive oil and salt and stir.
4. Add fresh herbs. Stir.
5. Add lemon and lemon zest.
6. Add tomatoes. Stir.
7. Add tamari (soy sauce) and coconut aminos. Stir.
8. Let sit for at least an hour for flavors to harmonize.

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January 11, 2013 | 5:28 pm

Simple and Basic Tomato Basil Sauce (RECIPE)

Posted by Elana Horwich

Learning to make tomato sauce is challenging. This recipe is quite simple as promised, don’t get me wrong.  But there are so many ways of making a tomato sauce, so many good ways, that it’s easy to get confused. The reality is it takes time and practice to get to a point when you feel you own the  sauce you are making. The upshot is that you get to eat your way to learning and make everyone around you very happy in the meantime.  

Hence,  as someone who has been studying tomato sauce religiously from the Italians for the last 15 years and as someone who would like to see YOU progress in a lot less time, here is my tomato sauce HOMEWORK GUIDE:

1. Make this particular sauce until you feel comfortable with it. Make it a few times in the next few weeks.
2. Then start experimenting with other tomato basil recipes that you encounter either in this blog or through other chefs. Notice how a slight difference in ingredients and process changes the flavor.
3. Begin now to try out all different kinds of tomato sauce recipes, not just a tomato and basil one, and notice how the inclusion of onion or celery or thyme or oregano changes the character of the sauce. You will find that even how you cut the ingredients will affect the flavor,  as will  the exact heating method contribute to nuanced differences.  You might prefer one sauce depending on the mood you are in or the meal you are making.
4. Soon you will begin to make your own array of sauces inspired by personally informed creative impulses.  This is freedom in the kitchen!!

If you can’t be bothered by all that, just follow the instructions below and enjoy.

But, for those still interested in learning, I will dispel the secrets of this particular sauce. As you will see there are not many ingredients. This  sauce is the opposite of Emril Lagasse’s expression ” BAM, BAM BAM!” There are no explosions of flavor here.  This sauce is about harmony and about letting the garlic and whole basil leaves gently infuse their flavors into the tomatoes. The carrots are not to be eaten inside of the sauce, but are used rather to add sweetness to the tomatoes naturally, without sugar. They also lend a mildly earthy flavor. (The carrots cooked in the tomato sauce will however, make a leftover side dish!)

Lastly, a good tomato sauce cannot be made without good tomatoes. I like canned  tomatoes for certain sauces because they are just as good in the winter as they are in the summer (unlike fresh tomatoes which are only good in summer) and lend themselves to a richer sauce with very little work.

The guidebook for choosing canned tomatoes:

• Always read the ingredients on a can of tomatoes. If there is oregano or garlic  or other spices, those canned flavors are going into your sauce and it will not taste like Italy. It will taste like the cheap  American spaghetti sauce your mother made.
• Whole peeled tomatoes will have better flavor than those that are already diced. The cutting process ruins them somehow. I pulse them in my Vitamix or Cuisinart very briefly, leaving the puree the slightest bit chunky, just before I throw it into the hot pan.
• Choose Italian plum tomatoes when possible. The best are San Marzano.

Here is a list of some of my favorite brands:  (again, no one is sponsoring me, this is for your own good and the good of tomato sauce at large):

1. Carmelina Italian Peeled Tomatoes
2. San Marzano Whole Peeled Tomatoes
3. Cento San Marzano Whole Peeled Tomatoes
4. Whole Foods 365 Organic Whole Peeled Tomatoes
5. Whole Foods 365 Whole Peeled Tomatoes
6. Trader Joe’s  canned tomatoes with basil, my friend Francesca, a real Italian,  says they are great and uses them all the time. I think they are ok, but not fantastic.
7. Organic Muir Glenn Whole Peeled Plum Tomatoes
8. S&W Premium Organic Diced Tomatoes *Note: these are not my favorite brand, I put them down because they can be found at some Costco’s in bulk and can help us insure that we always have a can of tomatoes on hand. I do find them a bit watery and flavorless though, but certain clients of mine never noticed!

 

Ingredients:

(to read Health Benefits of each ingredient, click on them)

• Extra Virgin Olive Oil, about a quarter cup
• 3 large cloves garlic, peeled and smashed firmly with the side of a knife
• tiny dash of red pepper flakes
• 1  28 oz. can whole peeled San Marzano Tomatoes, or another choice from the list above
• 10-15 fresh basil leaves
• 1 carrot, cut in half and then each half cut in quarters vertically, totaling 8 matchstick pieces- no need to peel it if organic.... OR a handful of baby carrots
• kosher salt, about 1- 1 ½ tsp.

1. Place a heavy skillet over a medium flame for a couple minutes.
2. In the meantime, in a Vitamix on low settings or in a food processor, briefly pulse the tomatoes and their juices into a pulp, without over processing. You can also squeeze tomatoes by hand, but careful of the splatterings!
3. Add olive oil to the hot skillet, followed by the garlic, red pepper flakes and carrots. Watch as the bubbles emanate from garlic; that is the garlic infusing its flavor into the oil. Don’t let the garlic burn or even brown, you want it to stay translucent.
4. After several minutes, pour in the tomato pure. You will see olive oil coming up on the sides of the tomatoes;this is ok, the olive oil helps to transform the flavor of the tomato.  
5. Add a good sprinkling of salt, about 1 teaspoons, and a large handful of basil leaves. I throw them in with the stems.
6. Stir occasionally. It will be done in 20-25 minutes, when it is no longer watery and the sauce has thickened.
7. Test for salt and add more if necessary. If you aren’t sure if there is enough salt, there isn’t. Add more.
8. Remove the carrots and use them as a side dish for another meal, if you like.

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January 11, 2013 | 8:45 am

Rules for an Al Dente Pasta

Posted by Elana Horwich

You will need:

• large pot of water
• kosher salt
• a timer/stopwatch to help you stay on task.
• one pound (one box) pasta- serves 4 people

(Best brands for pasta are DeCecco, Barilla, Garofalo (available at CostCo) and Tinyada Brown Rice Pasta*)

1. Always use a big pot of boiling water, even if you are making pasta only for one. The pasta needs to “breathe” while it cooks.
2. Once water boils, throw in a full handful of salt. Yes, a handful. Just do it.
3. Put in the pasta all at once, i.e. not put in one handful after the other or you will mess up cooking times.
4. Stir pasta a couple times at the beginning to make sure it doesn’t stick. Spaghetti and all brown rice pasta needs extra stirring. Get your tongs* in there!
5. YELL TO FAMILY AND FRIENDS: “ Butto la pasta. I am throwing in the pasta.” This lets them know they have about 10 minutes to finish up whatever they are doing and to get ready to be at the table the moment the pasta is served.
6. Don’t leave wooden spoon or tongs in the pasta water while it is cooking.
7. Colander must be put in sink now, early. If you fumble for it later, you risk mushy pasta, which is punishable by law in certain parts of Italy.
8. Do NOT go on the computer while your pasta is cooking. You are risking mushy pasta. which is punishable by law in Italy.
9. If you must step away from the pasta, set a timer for 4 minutes before the pasta is said to be ready, according to box instructions.
10. Start testing pasta for done-ness 3 minutes before it is supposed to be ready, according to package instructions.
11. If your sauce has been turned off, turn the flame on again to medium to make sure it is heated through.
12. All crunchiness in pasta should be gone and the intense chewiness should just be giving way to a softer texture. Stop. You are done.
13. 30 Seconds too much or too little DOES make a difference. (When in doubt: Better to undercook a tad than to overcook it.)
14. Drain pasta.
15. DO NOT RINSE PASTA. The starch on the pasta is what marries the sauce to the noodles.
16. YELL TO FAMILY AND FRIENDS: “La pasta e` pronta. The pasta is ready”. This is when they need to come to the table.
17. Raise flame of sauce to a “fuoco vivace”, lively flame  (medium-high to high ) and pour drained pasta into it.
18. Use tongs* or two big forks or wooden spoons to TOSS (and not mix) the pasta and sauce together.
19. Serve onto individual plates and top with freshly grated parmigiano reggiano or fresh parsley or mint  if the dish calls for it.
20. FINAL IMPORTANT RULE: the pasta is to be eaten immediately. There is no such thing as letting it sit until you are ready to eat. If you are not ready, do not go past step 1. The pasta is a demigod in Italian culture. It’s readiness dictates your readiness. If someone is late to the table, you do not wait for them to eat. The pasta is ready. Eat it now!!

 

* Shop for these items here.

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