As if to underline the dissonance, the two sides of town were operating on different time zones. For reasons known only to a handful of kabbalistic sages, Israel has put the clock back for the winter while temperatures are still topping 85 degrees Fahrenheit. The Palestinians are still on summer time. Seasons apart, Jews and Arabs are still trying to fathom Israel's tenacious new prime minister, Ehud Barak.
"Every step is one-sided," said a grumbling Aharon Ringwald, locking his watchmaker's shop for Shabbat on Ben-Yehuda Street. "It can only work to the Palestinians' advantage. They haven't kept any agreement they've signed, right from the beginning. They don't recognize our right to be in this land. They would still like to drive us out. And we're making it easier for them."
His neighbor, Herzl Muthada, confessed to mixed feelings. "We give, but we don't get," he said outside his narrow flower shop, which overflows with bronze, purple and white chrysanthemums, Michaelmas daisies and stately gladioli. "But it's too soon to know whether we're going to fare better under Barak. We have to wait -- and give him credit."
Avi Ben, a liquor store owner, had more faith in his prime minister. "Barak's done an excellent job," he argued. "He's playing tough, and it's working. It's the same in the way he handles his coalition. He's somebody with guts. It's important that he's strong, that he's a leader. That's how he has to be."
At Cafe Atara, the manager, Yehudit Levisohn, was cautiously pleased with the deal. "We have to aim for peace," she said, "but I hope Barak will do it in the right way, even if it takes time." Two years ago this month, Levisohn was wounded by a Hamas suicide bombing outside the cafe. "I'm sure crazy people will continue to cause problems, but we mustn't let them succeed."
Yair Baruch, an 18-year-old who's waiting to start his three years' army service, had no reservations. "This agreement," he said, "is a good move for both sides. What's important is to create a better atmosphere. If there is an atmosphere of welcoming peace, that should work. The details are less important.
"Barak's already proving better than Bibi Netanyahu. Netanyahu wasn't consistent, so nobody trusted him. Barak is trying to do just the opposite."
Across town, on Saladin Street, Wahib Tarazi, an Arab veterinarian, was less confident. "At least we're getting something," he said. "But the Palestinian street won't be satisfied that they're only freeing 350 prisoners. It's ridiculous that we're making peace, and our prisoners are still in jail."
What did he make, I asked, of Barak? "Netanyahu was better," he said. "He presented the real face of Israel. They want to take everything, but they don't want to deal with the Palestinians as human beings. Barak is more pragmatic. We all know how it's going to end. There'll be a Palestinian state. So why is he making it take so much longer than necessary?"
We met in a bookstore, where Tarazi was looking for an Arabic-French dictionary. I asked the woman behind the counter, a Christian Arab with a cross hanging from her neck, what she thought of the peace agreement. "What peace?" she said. "What agreement?"