Last year at this time, I slept at my parents' old Brown's Hotel Royal in White Lake, that they owned from 1946-52. It's astonishing that the hotel still stands, recycled as the beautifully decorated Bradstan Hotel. Most very small hotels -- the Royal would be stuffed at 60 guests -- are long ago collapsed, burned, reclaimed by the land. I compiled a list of 953 hotels that graced the Jewish summer paradise of Sullivan and Ulster counties over the last century, and more than 500 still stood in the late 1960s, along with about the same number of bungalow colonies. Less than two handfuls of hotels remain, none of them as small as the Royal, and they close at an alarming rate -- the Concord, Pines and Aladdin, all in the last year. But bungalow colonies still abound, largely populated by ultra Orthodox Jews.