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Marco Polo Redux

To say that Shalom Hunan is the best kosherChinese food in Los Angeles is not the left-handed compliment itseems.

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The affinity of Jews to Chinese food reaches its apotheosis in John Krich's "Won Ton Lust: Adventures in Search of the World's Best Chinese Restaurant" (Kodansha, $24). It's no outrageous stereotype to state that, as a people, American Jews seem to need a good Chinese meal to kick-start us into the week. It's nothing to be ashamed of;neither is it anything to take lightly.

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